Tuesday, May 1 1849.

Schooner Martha [Iliohae] sailed from Honolulu to Koloa. Ship of 30 tons, dirty, unsavory and crowded with natives. By coaxing, ordering and shoving we cleared the stern of the vessel and found room to lie down.

Wednesday, May 2, 1849

Thursday, May 3, 1849.

Middle of channel.

Friday, May 4,1849

Morning we were off Koloa. The mountains of Kauai were clothed with verdure. The whole view had a green and verdure aspect. Landed at Koloa, walked to the Mission House about 1 1/2 mile. Koloa was a dry place and overrun with indigo plants. Received by Mrs. Smith. Group consisted of Mr. Johnson, son Edward and Wm Alexander rode horses, began at 4:30 pm to Wailua.

Saturday, May 5, 1849.

Rode from Wailua toward Kapa’a. A wreck of a schooner was on the beach at Kapa’a. This wreck once belonged to Capt. Bernard. Rode to Kealia and had some difficulty crossing the stream owing to the restiveness of our horses. Rode 2 miles further and came to the pali that overlook Kalihiwai valley. Five more miles of riding once we crossed the Kalihiwai river.

Hanalei. The country was undulating, clothed in luxuriant pasturage and diversified with groves of trees. Hanalei river wound its way around coffee plantations

Sunday May 6, 1849.

Sabbath, about 200 people met in the Meeting House situated among some hau trees.

Monday, May 7, 1849

Walked along the beach at Hanalei

Tuesday May 8, 1849

rained.

Wednesday, May 9, 1849

rained all day. Widow of Lele’iohaku was called upon by Mrs. Johnson. She recently came to Hanalei.

Thursday, May 10,1849

Apolo, a Hawaiian guide took them from Waioli to Haena. Village of Haena is at the foot of the precipice. The caves are here. The dry cave is concealed by several kukui trees. It is 12-15 ft high the mouth is 80 ft wide and 220 ft in length. Two other caves are nearby. A canoe was hired to be carried to the wet cave, nearly 1/4 mile inland of the shore. The first cave had two apartments. The entrance to the first is around 20 ft high and 50 ft wide. The entrance to the second about half as large. Together they are 200 ft in length. The cave is filled with very pure water. It is 40 ft deep at the entrance of the 2nd apartment. We took the canoe in and visited both apartments.

The second cave was reached by climbing a steep ascent and then descended about 100 ft to the bottom. This cave is full of water which is covered with a thin white scum. The natives believe a moo inhabits the cave. We crossed the Lumahai river in a canoe, swimming across the Waipa river and returned to Waioli.

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Friday, May 11, 1849.

Went in Apolo's canoe up the Hanalei river to the Rhodes Plantation. He grew coffee in a 100 acre area He also had bananas, orange and bamboo.

Went up Waioli Valley. Here was a large singular rock, 20 feet high, and 50 inches in circumference. It is of a very hard and compact stone. It is chiseled out, as if it were, into little ridges. Also at the bottom of Waioli river were logs embedded in the banks. It was believed that this was an old forest that was fallen by nature and covered by 8-10 ft of earth.

Saturday, May 12, 1849,

Rode with Mrs. Johnson pass Titcomb's coffee plantation . Crossed the Hanalei river and rode to the Russian Fort. This is a breastwork about 4 ft high of an irregular form containing about 1/2 acre. Built by the Russians in 1815. Called on Mrs. Dudoit whose residence was at the brow of the hill

Sunday, May 13, 1849

Went to a native meeting that was well attended. Not able to understand the sermon.

Monday, May 14, 1849

Bid farewell to the Johnson’s and started back to Koloa. After leaving Kealia we rode through a forest of koa which had within a few years back been swept by a fire. The erect blackened trunks were present.

Tuesday, may 15, 1849.

Walked to Wailua Falls which is not more than 1/4 mile from the house. of Mr and Mrs. Brown. Wailua river is navigable for a small schooner for 2-3 miles and in places it is about 400 ft wide. Went to Koloa.

Wednesday. May 16, 1849.

Wrote letters and wrote in the journal. Prepared to go to Waimea.

Thursday, May 17, 1849.

Left this morning for Waimea. Native went along as a guide. Wahiawa valley was crossed. The brook was so rocky that it was difficult to cross. Passed a large enclosure owned by the Mission in which is Mrs., Whitney's county seat. Eight miles from Koloa, is the beautiful and highly cultivated valley of Hanapepe. There is considerable water in the river. We passed the port of Mahina A’ouli where the Etmelia [a ship] was being repaired. Waimea river is as deep as that of Hanapepe. Arrived at Mrs. Whitney’s at 1 pm. It is a very dry place. Their house is about 1/4 mile from the sea and surrounded by luxuriant shrubbery. Horses had to taken across the river to the Mission pasturage.

Friday, May 18, 1849.

Started for Mana. Mana is 10 miles from Waimea. Arrived at barking sands. On taking the sand in our hands, & pushing it together, & sharp sound was produced, somewhat like the bark of a small dog. On climbing the sand hill which is about 40 feet high, & sliding down, a deep hollow sound like thunder was heard. Returned to Waimea and left for Koloa. At Barking Sands they took a legging full of sand and experimented at Waimea and Koloa and the bark was still there.

Saturday, May 19 1849.

Koloa. Heard about the caves in Koloa and decided to go exploring.

Borrowed an isinglass lantern from Dr. Smith. Went to the first one which was muddy due to the drippings from the cave roof. It measured 500 ft long. Visited several others that were smaller, one was 338 ft long. Another was formerly a burial place and the superstitious natives would not enter.

Sunday, May 20, 1849.

Kahokui, Dr. Smith's native helper preached this afternoon.

Monday, May 21, 1849

Rode with Dr. Smith's family to the hills behind Koloa. The family went in a wagon. Climbed to the top of the hill and had a stunning view of the island. Wai’aleale, peaks at Anahola could be seen, Koloa with its plantations, mills and native houses, as well as the river and bay at Nawiliwili.

Sloop came in from Honolulu.

Tuesday, May 22, 1849

Went to the Spouting Horn. It is a hole in a ledge of rock, about 4 feet in diameter connected by a subterranean passage. There are other smaller ones along the shore.

Wednesday, May 23, 1849.

Started with Dr. Smith for Hanapepe. Arrived at noon at the Mission House in the valley. Decided to go see the waterfall in the valley. The rode about a mile on the edge of the pali and descended a high and steep pali. At a certain place they stopped and tied their horses and went on foot. They crossed the stream 8 times. The waterfall is 4-5 miles from the sea and is nearly 200 ft high. Rode up the ridge for some distance to a mound or small hill which in ancient times was kapu. On its summit was a pavement, where human sacrifices were offered.

Between this sacred hill and Lanihuli was the mill. It is on the banks of the river under a cliff which rises steep to nearly 200 ft. The buildings are white and look as well as sugar mills. The motive power is steam and the machinery is from Glasgow. From this mill, the Prince [the schooner] took to Oahu 300 kegs of sugar and 150 barrels of molasses.

Thursday, May 24, 1849

Returned to Koloa. The ship Martha was at anchor and they decided to board her and sail off to Oahu.

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Friday, May 25, 1849 to Saturday May 26 and Sunday May 27, 1849

By morning the Martha was far from Kauai but also a considerable distance to the leeward of her. Could make no progress to windward and by evening the ship was 5 miles from Koloa. By sundown the ship was again at Koloa anchorage and all decided to go ashore.

Monday, May 28, 1849

Went to a crater 3 miles from Dr. Smith's residence and near the seashore.

Tuesday. May 29, 1849

This morning the K.III., a ship arrived at Koloa. That evening the Martha also arrived from Honolulu.

Wednesday, May 30, 1849.

Martha sailed from Koloa at night for Oahu. She is supposedly to land at Nawiliwili to pick up some hogs before going on to Oahu.

The K.III., sailed from Koloa to Waimea before sailing on to Oahu.

Thursday, May 31, 1849.

Could not get horse to go to Waimea to catch the K.III.