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Queen Emma Ascends

to the Alakai Swamp

by Eric A. Knudsen

Queen Emma's trip to Kaua'i was to go to Kilohana of Hanalei [which is the lookout point from the cliffs of the mountains above Hanalei]. Kaluahi was to be the guide. The trail was bad, overgrown.

The troupe was of men, women and children. They started out from Waimea. There was about 100 of them, musicians, hula dancers, retainers and friends. They rode from Waimea to Koke’e. The trail then was only a bridle path. The troupe measured about 1/2 mile in length.

The group reached the edge of the deep valley of Kauaikinana and there the horse trail ended. Everyone dismounted and traveled on foot. The trail went down a long and narrow hogback. A few hundred feet from the top is a flat spot about 30 ft square with a 200 ft pali guarding the south side. There the queen asked for a hula dance which lasted an hour or so.

The proceeded along the trail which was in bad shape. The reached Lehuamakanoe and dropped down into Kawaikoi stream . From there they finally proceeded with much effort into Alakai Swamp . They crossed the swamp and entered a moss covered woods when night came. Four men of Waimea built the queen a small platform of lehua twigs and branches on which they laid their cloaks. She alone was allowed to sit on the platform. The queen called upon her people to be happy, she chanted and the rest followed with a night of leisure and gaiety.

When dawn came they proceeded to the edge of Wainiha River which was 4000 feet below, and the villages of Hanalei and Kilauea and the ocean could be seen. This was Kilohana of Hanalei . They then turned around and went back into the Alakai Swamp. The return was easier as the trail was already broken in. When they reached their horses the troupe did not stop to sing and chant but dashed as fast as they could to Waimea. At Waimea, a grand luau had been prepared for the Queen and her troupe.

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