>Fishpond Creatures

FISH

Mullet ’Ama’ama. The Gray Mullet (Mugil cephalis)

Hawaiians believed that the ‘ama’ama was a supernatural fish and since it was borne of a human being, at one time it heard and understood speech. According to legend, the first ‘ama’ama was a daughter born in Ewa to human parents, Kaulu, the husband and Apoka’a the wife. From this daughter came all the other ‘ama’ama. At the request of her brother Laniloa, she took her human form and led the schools of fish to La’ie, the land where Laniloa lived. The ancient Hawaiians loved the ‘ama’ama. Thus, the fish appears in many old legends and poetical sayings.

An ancient Hawaiian proverb likens the mullet to a rich person: “‘Ala ke kai o ka ‘anae”

Fragrant is the soup of a big mullet.

A well-to-do person is attractive because of his prosperity.

A fat mullet is well liked for broth

Hawaiians noted different stages of growth and even the migration of mullet in terminology. They had seven names to describe stages of mullet growth. The most recognizable stages are:

pua or pua ‘ama for fingerlings

kahaha for hand length, ‘ama ‘ama for 8 inches

‘anae for 12 inches or more

As they make their seasonal migration from Ewa to La’ie and back again, the large mullet are called ‘anae-holo as they go towards La’ie and ‘anae-pali as they return. According to Mokumaia, the ‘anae have visible changes to their physical appearance during the two phases of their sojourn. Descriptive terminology of the mullet also appears in Hawaiian place names such as Wai’anae which literally means fresh water (wai) and mullet over 12 inches in size (‘anae).

At sunset I walk the path, a semi-circle around the circumference of the pond. I stop at each feeding station and scatter feed. They come, once again in schools. Young fish about 6 inches long, called kahaha in Hawaiian. Swimming in perfect formation they cut their familiar pattern of graceful arcs and V’s on the surface of the water. Schooling as thy, do, I wonder how they sense each other. They scatter, regroup, and scatter once more.

The feeding frenzy is another matter. It is a rapid fire of tiny explosions on the surface of the water. The sound of their feeding is like the crash of a wave as they, dart to gobble the pelletized feed. When the feed is expended, they skim the surface of the water for tiny floating particles, swimming slowly, the sound of their mouths opening and closing, barely audible. We tend these fish and watch them grow from the fragile small puaama into fat ‘anae.

The mullet is a popular fish in the Pacific Basin, Southeast Asia, India, the Mediterranean and Eastern Europe. They were well liked by the ancient Greeks and Romans. Today, they are a popular fish for aquaculture in China, Hong Kong, the Philippines, Indonesia, India, Japan, Israel, and Italy. Mullet are catadromous fish, which spawn in the sea and enter estuaries and brackish water lagoons for habitat. The mullet is generally not valued as it food fish in the Continental USA and is often referred to as a trash fish.

In Hawaii the popular once plentiful ‘ama’ama has been over fished. Local island mullet is now a rarity. The delicate taste of island fish is far superior to the frozen, air shipped products imported from the Southern United States and New Zealand. Part of this difference may be due to inadequate processing for market. A fish regarded as trash will not be iced and carefully processed. Under these circumstances, delicate oils turn rancid and freezing changes the subtle flavor. However, there are other likely reasons for difference in taste.

I believe as Hawaiians and most aquaculturists do that different waters grow fish of differing flavors. Subtle characteristics of water quality affect the growth and health of fish. In warm waters with abundant sunshine, it is likely that Hawaii’s waters can grow the very best fish. Hawaii also has a diverse cultural community of Hawaiians, Chinese, Japanese, and Filipinos who all enjoy eating fresh mullet Perhaps culture, cooking method, and familiarity also enhances fondness and taste.

I greet the ‘ama’ama at the interface of stream and sea, they dance in the ebb and flow of each wave. Their thousands of silver bodies, an inch in size, have followed the golden plankton of the brackish water ... here to Lokoea stream. These fish have come from hatching in the vast ocean to this tiny estuary.

Their sojourn from estuary, to the ocean, and back again is the story of their lifecycle. In winter, fat with eggs and sperm, the adult fish seek the pristine waters of the open ocean where salinity and temperature is stabilized within a narrow range. There, they form large schools. Each school consists of a scattering of smaller groups. Each small group has one large female and several smaller male fish.

As the spawning ritual begins, the males lie parallel to the female and face in the same direction. The males violently quiver and sometimes turn to touch the female genitalia. The female responds, releasing a small quantity of eggs. This stimulates the male to eject sperm. The female then releases a continuous stream of eggs. Each female produces 1-3 million eggs that are round, and transparent. They are tiny each egg having a diameter of 0.93-0.95 mm- about the size of the dot of an i). The eggs contain an oil globule that gives it buoyancy. The cloud of eggs and sperm mix and fertilization occurs.

The eggs are suspended by the movement of the water. In 59 to 64 hours they hatch. The newly hatched eggs are clumsy floating belly up and head down. As their yolk sacs are digested, they become free swimming and make several migrations down and up in the water column.

The emergent larvae are carnivorous during their early development eating tiny zooplankton, the microscopic animals in the seawater. At a later stage, they are omnivorous eating tiny animals and plants. In their matured fingerling state, they are herbivorous, eating only the tiny plants of the ocean.

Survival at this state is tenuous. The perfect ocean conditions in temperature and salinity must be stable. Predators abound, the clumsy newly hatched fish are perfect food for the many creatures of the ocean. The availability of the proper Gods at the proper sage of development is also crucial.

In 30 to 45 days, they migrate back to the estuary where they appear in small schools. They are led by the salinity and the abundance of their favorite foods, particularly the unicellular microscopic algae called diatoms. At this time, the fish have well developed swimming skills and school in a distinct and recognizable pattern. Hawaiians call this style pua’ama. They swim with grace in unison with the motion of the waves. They seem to be one with the waves. Any sudden movement or disturbance in the water will cause them to scatter. Thus, it is with careful contemplation- that I approach them with my net.

The edge of the net angles in slowly as I scoop quietly below the surface under the school of pua’ama to capture them. Their silver bodies are fragile. At this time, their scales are just newly developed. They are delectable morsels for the many predators that abound in the estuary. I carefully turn the net inside out over the bucket of water and return to collect more pua’ama The full bucket of fingerlings is taken to the nursery where they will be; tended daily until they are released into their new home, Lokoea, pond of life, birth and mist. Here they say to fatten and grow. The pond’s productivity gives them a selection of wild forage that is supplemented with pelletized feed.

[Carol A. Wyban May 1991]

Milkfish or Awa (Chanos chanos)

... They are a brilliant silvery color, quite large, and-have small scales and no teeth. [Tinker, Hawaiian Fishes p.38-39]

The entire body of a milkfish has a brilliant, metallic color. It is silvery bluish or grayish-green above, silvery on the sides, and white beneath. It reaches a length of from two to five feet and has a small, toothless mouth. The scales which cover the body are hard and silvery and were used, by different peoples as ornaments. It is most easily recognized by its widely forked tail.

The awa is one of the most important food fishes in the Hawaiian Islands. It is next to the mullet the most abundant species frequenting the walled fishponds. Like the mullet, it is run with the tide into the fishponds and there confined while it grows to maturity.

Like most other fishes the Hawaiians gave it different names at different ages. The young were called puawa, medium sized individuals were called awa-awa, commercial fish were called simply awa, while the very large fish were called awa-kalamoho.[Tinker, Hawaiian Fishes p.38-39]

Stages of growth: puawa, awa-awa, says the young are puawa, medium size, awa- awa (describes the state after the bloom of youth is gone; a little rough) ordinary commercial size; awa; very large are awa-kalamoho.

[Titcomb "Native Use of Fish in Hawaii" Pg 66]

Aholehole Silver Perch (Kuhlia sandvicensis)

A fish enjoyed with great relish by Haleiwa residents is the aholehole of Lokoea. Many people have told us that in the old days during the heavy rains the aholehole of the pond would fill the makaha. Of such quantity was the catch that they were carried away in truckloads. The old timers of Haleiwa say that when it rains, the drops of rain make such clatter that the fish get agitated. Their skins get itchy and they become desperate to escape the abrasiveness of the rain. They rush down the waterway from ‘Uko’a to Lokoea and into the makaha where they are caught.

Perhaps the aholehole that rush down the waterway through the bullrush are the reason for this common saying: "Pupuhi ka i’a o ‘Uko’a naue ka ‘uki."

The fishes of ‘Uko’a blow, the rushes are stirred.

Meaning fishes are so numerous that their breath stirs the rushes.

Aholehole still exist in Lokoea but not in large quantity. The decline of aholehole is attributed by some to the vegetative growth that encroached upon the watercourse that connects Lokoea to ‘Uko’a. I attribute the decline to the fact that before our coming, fish were not stocked into the pond for a decade. Like the mullet, the aholehole do not reproduce in the fishpond and seedstock must be gathered from the stream.

In nature the aholehole reproduce year round. They are adaptable and feed on a variety of food preferably insects and algae. As young fish they frequent fresh water and cruise along the shore and tide pools. When they reach the adult stage, they are called ahole and are nocturnal frequenting areas in the ocean ranging from 5 to 50 feet in depth.

We take a bag of aholehole to Junior Hookala at the Haleiwa Ice House. His eyes sparkle as he describes how Haleiwa people prepare it: The fish is scaled. The belly is cut open. The organs are not removed but the bile is carefully squeezed out of the intestine. The fish is then scored and rubbed with Hawaiian salt and kukui nut. It is then eaten raw complete with intestinal organs, Lokoea aholehole is said to be clean and sweet as no other fish from fresh or ocean water!

The aholehole was considered a dainty in ancient days. Like the ‘ama’ama, it was often craved by chiefs In response to the chiefly yearnings far the aholehole from a distant fishpond, runners would be sent to procure the fish. Aholehole was used in sacrifices to ward off evil spirits. It was also used to ward off evil in the building of new homes. A fish was planted under each post when a house was under construction.

O’opu nakea. Goby (Awaous stamineus)

I can attest to this, for the Lokoea aholehole is my favorite fish to eat. These fish are small, usually six fish to a pound. Their bodies shine bright as pieces of silver as they are taken from the cooler. Their eyes are large and their under-bellies are yellow. Their bodies are flat with sharp dorsal spines. These are not an easy fish to clean but I do so with anticipation of the delicate and tasty repast. Dipped in flour and fried to a golden crisp, I prepare a heaping platter to be served with unchoi and steaming hot rice. I have eaten aholehole from the ocean and from fishponds other than Lokoea. On each occasion, the flavor of these fish has failed to meet my expectation. The Haleiwa. people are right. Aholehole from 1okoea is the tastiest fish.

The ‘o’opu is one of the animal forms associated with the family of Pele, the fire goddess. Because of its prehistoric and lizard like appearance, it resembled the moo lizard guardians that some families held sacred. Some families on Molokai and West Maui feared eating the fish. One legend tells of a Molokai man who placed a bundle of ‘o’opu wrapped in ti leaf on a fire. A voice from the bundle caused him to flee in fright. Another story tells of Ka-Hinano cleaning and salting some ‘o’opu. A woman with ehu colored hair comes to the house, calls to the fish and places them alive back into the stream. Ehu colored hair is a red-brown color associated with the fire goddess Pele.

Hawaiians had several methods for catching ‘o’opu. In fresh water streams and taro ponds, women thrust their arms under rocks or in holes to catch the fish by hand and place them in bag. The fish were eaten raw, dried or sometimes cooked, wrapped in ti leaf or ginger leaf over hot coals. The fragrance of the leaves imparted their flavor to the fish.

In Lokoea, the favored habitat of ‘o’opu is the Keiki pond with its cool springs and ample mud for burrowing. It is a fish that looks like the slime and ooze of its habitat. As all the native Hawaiian fish of the pond, it must travel to the ocean to reproduce. There are many poetical sayings about ‘o’opu. The one that relates most to Lokoea is:

So fond were they of ‘o’opu that the usually generous Hawaiians rarely shared this fish.

Titcomb states that even though a neighbor stood by while one cleaned her fish, freshly caught, there was no raising of the head in recognition, or a word or offering to share. If a greeting were exchanged, offering to share would have been obligatory.

The ‘o’opu is a carnivorous fish that burrows in the mud of estuaries. At one time the ‘o’opu spawn, called hinana, was gathered in vast quantities in known areas of different islands as they entered the streams.

Ka i’a a ka wai nui i lawe mai ai.

The fish borne along by the flood

At Lokoea, the rainy season brought potential for flooding and siltation. During times of heavy rain, water from upland areas washed silt into the fishpond. The mud was most visible in the waterway from ‘Uko’a. Jim began a practice of opening makaha #3 at times of heavy rain. The water movement altered its course from the waterway through the gate and into the stream. This diverted the flow of muddy water from settling in the pond. This practice solved some of the problems of silt build up, but had an added bonus. In the channel of makaha #3 after these rains were the fat ‘o’opu borne by the flood.

[Jordan and Everman]

Papio / Ulua. Crevally (Caranx ignobilis)

The ulua was one of the fish that women were forbidden to eat in ancient days. Hawaiians likened this fish to a fine man and a strong warrior as described in the following poetical sayings:

Ka ulua kapapa o ke kai loa.

The powerful ulua of the deep sea.

A strong warrior.

The ulua fish is a strong fighter

ia i ka huki ulua

Gone to haul ulua fish.

Gone to get her man. The ulua fish signifies a man.

When the ulua fingerlings first enter the estuary in an early stage of growth, they are as shiny, flat, and beautiful as newly minted silver dollars. At this stage they were called papiopio by the Hawaiians. They are found in the estuary year round, but most abundant in August and September. In recent times the term has been shortened to papio. When the papio has reached a weight of 10 lb it is classified as ulua.

Jim kept a few juvenile papio in an aquarium to observe their feeding habits. He fed them live tilapia fry. The tilapia placed in the tank were taken so quick that all we observed was the blur of the strike. Because these fish are predators they are strong, high-speed swimmers. The papio and ulua are strong fighters and favored game fish.

The bodies of the fish have an opalescent sheen when first taken from the water. The type of fish that lived in Lokoea is commonly called the white papio or white ulua. It is an attractive well liked fish that commands a high market price. The flesh is white, firm, and flavorful. It is a predator and in the fishpond it eats more than it is worth. Unintentional intrusion of juvenile predators is difficult to avoid when using the makaha for pond circulation and harvest. The fish are swept in or swim in with the current of water.

Normally he would not think to stock a predator into the pond, but on one occasion, Jim caught a large number of fry in the estuary and took them to the Keiki pond. He reasoned that keeping them isolated in the smallest pond; he could grow them up for market or fish them for sport. After all, how many people have their own private ulua pond for fishing? That winter an unusually rainy season combined with high surf caused the Keiki pond to overflow, releasing the predators into the two larger ponds. Later in a seining party, we swept the entire pond and caught a 75 lb cooler full of papio each about a 1/4 to 1/2 lb in size.

Moi Threadfin (polydactylus sexfilis)

Moi was not a fish for commoners. It was a fish that was eaten by chiefs. The fish was uncommon and when large schools of moi were seen, it was regarded as a disastrous omen to the chiefs. It often was a prophesy of death to the high born. Its habitat in nature is in the rough, foamy shallows of the ocean. It is a strong fighter that is hard to catch.

When we first strung the gill nets at Lokoea, Jim caught several moi. When he took them to Oahu market, he was amazed at the response from the Chinese merchant at the fish stall. In his excitement the man jumped over the counter to get at the fish. The fact that we grew moi in our pond considerably raised our esteem in his eyes. There was a marked difference in the way he treated us. There after when we visited his stall, it was common to leave with gifts of food. This was an indicator of the rarity of moi and the dollar value of the fish. Jim’s interest in moi was stirred and he wanted to learn more about this valuable species for fishpond production.

As he was developing an understanding of Lokoea’s aquatic life, he discussed facets of the ecosystem with other scientists and made journal notations:

1/13/82: Spoke to Gerry Akiyama (HIMB) about moi. He said they spawn in 3rd quarter of the moon-no hormone injecting necessary. They had very high mortality- probably poor nutrition. Juveniles are miniature adults w/ barbels etc. Up to 2 lbs. every one is male then they reverse to female. Feed on crustaceans and small fish. Moili’i can be caught in sandy surf in summertime. Adults have broad spawning season (10 months) but maybe most likely March-July. May go to makaha at that time.

5/2/82: Jensen Lee came by to pick up 8 summer mullet I caught in the traps. He catheterized one that had lost lots of scales and she had very large eggs so he was very excited. I told him to just take the fish and he could return the favor later. He still wants to try moi so if I catch any maybe we can spawn them.

Sept. and Oct 1982: Lots of mullet juveniles in estuary, About 3-4X10 were stocked in screened area in middle (waterway) pond by, the makaha. After feeding for several days the ducks knocked down the fence to get at the feed and all the fish escaped. I traded about 1500 of a mix of these fish and summer mullet for about 600 4 inch striped mullet with 01. Jensen Lee later called and said he doesn’t think these fish are striped mullet. Perhaps they are Neomyus (Uouoa)."

The fish were later identified as Chelon engli. They lacked the gray stripes of the Mugil cephalis and were identified as fingerlings by a yellow dot above the eyes. (The Mugil has a blue dot above the eyes.) These fish were an added boon to our economy. The fish were sexually mature at a small size full of ripe eggs. They were well liked at the market, especially by the Filipino customers who favored small fish. A bag of summer mullet would be 10-12 fish to one lb.

There were other fish that were traditional to ancient fishpond culture that appeared to a lesser degree in Lokoea. These were the awa or milkfish (Chanos chanos), awa awa or ladyfish (Elops hawaiiensis) , Lai (Scomberoides sancti-petri), and Kaku or barracuda (Sphyraena barracuda). In post-European contact tines, the intentional introduction of nonnative species has affected the aquatic environment. Some of these fish have had profound impact upon Lokoea’s ecosystem.

Tilapia. (Oreochromis mossambica, Oreochromis macrochir, Sarotherodon melanotheron)

In 1981 Jim developed a graph of species composition. He estimated that 65% of the total biomass was tilapia and much of this existing stock was the Java tilapia, Oreochromis mossambica. Each day, several of these fish were seen floating on their sides along the edge of the pond. Their bodies were severely bent to one side. Upon approach they would swim a short distance down into the water but would quickly fatigue and float back up to the surface concave down. Jim examined the fish and found that they were emaciated with fin and tail rot. Red cauliflower lesions appeared on the base of their pectoral fins. In addition, some of the fish had deformed jaws. Hundreds of old and ragged Java tilapia appeared in visible shoals in the fishpond.

Jim worked cooperatively on the problem with Jim Brock, State Veterinarian of the Aquaculture Development Program. After sampling and studying the fish of the pond, Brock identified a mycobacterial disease. He assessed the cause of the problem to be due to starvation. The stock of fish in the pond exceeded the availability of natural food.

In the decade prior to our arrival when Lokoea was not stocked, fed, or harvested; tilapia bred rapidily and dominated the ecosystem. This large population of tilapia combined with the scarcity of food led to an unhealthy environment Lack of regular harvesting resulted in an old stock of fish.

Although they are not highly regarded as a food fish in Hawaii tilapia have been an important source of food since recorded history began. It is the fish St. Peter caught in the Sea of Galilee and the fish that Christ fed the multitudes.

The breeding habits of the tilapia are unique. The fish readily reproduces in varied conditions. The male begins by digging a hole in the pond bottom. The shallow nest about three feet wide is then guarded by the male, who chases off only encroaching male usurpers. When the ripe female enters, she lays 75 to 250 eggs in the nest and picks them up in her mouth. The male then discharges sperm into the depression and this is also picked up in the mouth by the female. Fertilization of the eggs occurs in the female’s mouth. The eggs are hatched it 3 to 5 days and larvae remain in the mouth until the yolk sac is absorbed and the fish are free swimming.

During the warm summer months, the mating ritual can be observed from the shoreline in shallows of the pond. The male Java tilapia turns a deep black color and a red orange coloration. running along the topmost edge of its dorsal fin. The pond bottom is pockmarked with the nests appearing like many craters on the pond bottom. Brooding females can be observed with a cloud of baby fish swimming just inches away from her mouth. If anything threatened the newborn fish, the mother would quickly capture them in her mouth and swimming away. This behavior of protecting the young assures survival. The fish breed every 3 to 6 weeks as long as the water is warm. Tilapia take 2 to 3 months to reach sexual maturity.

The mouth-brooding females congregated near the warm still shallows along the Southeastern wall of the large pond. Many times, when harvesting the gill net a brooding fish will spit out fertilized yellow eggs, and newly hatched larvae into the pond.

Other types of tilapia existed in the pond that were unaffected by the disease. Sarotherodon melanotheron called the white tilapia were observed in the ocean estuary outside the pond wall. These fish. were tolerant of high salinity. They were marked by turquoise and gold bars and a black spot on their chins. Their breeding habits differed the Java tilapia because the male mouth brooded the eggs instead of the female. Tilapia Oreochromis macrochir appeared most often in the waterway bordering the ‘Uko’a marshlands. These fish were marked by a light purple blush on their faces, a robust body shape, and red eyes. Their breeding habits were similar to the Java tilapia and thus the two could be interbred, creating a more robust hybrid fish.

CRUSTACEANS

‘Opae. Common Term for shrimps (Macrobrachium Lar)

Freshwater Prawn (Macrobrachium rosenbergii)

Women gathered ‘opae in ancient times with funnel shaped traps called hina’i- ‘opae. They waded in a crouched position in the grassy areas lining streams. Moving stones and thrusting sticks into holes. The basket would be placed under the leaves and vegetation. The shrimp would be caught in the basket and placed into a floating gourd.

Mrs. Lou Marks and Marv Miranda revived the tradition of ‘opae gathering at Lokoea. At times, they walked along the grassy edges of the pond with the double handled, fine mesh net and a five gallon bucket to gather ‘opae. The work was time consuming and the shrimp are not as abundant as in former days. Introduction of exotics such as the Malaysian prawn have affected the abundance of ‘opae. The dainty shrimp were gathered for a special occasion, Mrs. Marks’ 61st birthday luau. Perhaps they would gather just a few handfuls of ‘opae on each visit. They would take the shrimp home and freeze it and return for more in a few days. There was patience in the way they gathered the shrimp and Mrs. Mark was happy to come to the pond to visit and gather the food. For the luau she prepared the ‘opae raw with Hawaiian salt and kukui nut.

Several types of shrimp grew in the brackish waters of Lokoea. The white and almost transparent shrimp that Mrs. Mark collected in the grasses were almost 3/4 of an inch in size. The larger varieties of shrimp appeared to a lesser extent were the Machrobrachium lar with a body 4 to 5 inches in length. The shrimp was characterized by one large black pincher and one small pincher. The Macrobrachium rosenbergii, or Malaysian prawn was introduced in the 1960’s under a State of Hawaii aquaculture program. This fresh water prawn has a large body with a large head and one large blue pincher. These were found in the Keiki pond of the lowest salinity.

Samoan Crab. Scylla serrata

The pinchers of the Samoan crab appear to mimic the shape and purpose of human teeth. The Tip of the pinchers have sharp points that resemble incisors, used to tear and shred their food. The inner portion of the claw resembles molars used to grind and masticate the flesh. The scrappy crab pinchers reach up to snap at anyone who peers into the bucket.

The danger to fingers and toes are offset by the flavor and the market value of the crab. It was by far the crustacean with the highest market value and potential for expansion. The introduced crab is larger than any of the Hawaiian crabs raised in fishponds. Samoan crabs appear in estuaries and along mangrove shores throughout the Indo-Pacific region.

They are a rare catch in streams and brackish water estuaries of Oahu. At Lokoea they measure as much as eight inches across the carapace and weigh as much as five pounds, harvest weight. These armor-bodied creatures have sharp spikes on portions of their body segments.

Guy Tamashiro, taught Jim how to tie the crabs for market The twine would came from the front of the body cross over the back and wind around the pinchers tying them securely to the body of the crab. Jim wore sturdy rubber boots and held the crab down with his right foot as he secured the knots. They can easily lose a claw if not handled properly or if in battle with another crab. To store them for market they were kept live, each to its own bucket. Once a day water was run over them and drained. This allowed them to fill a body cavity with water and allow them to survive for 24 hours out of the water. It was much more efficient to store them this way until taken live to the market. If they were kept in water, they needed constant aeration or they would quickly deplete the oxygen in the bucket and die. Even with their claws tied to their bodies they could still walk about. A local restaurateur tells us that one morning when the restaurant door was unlocked they found several Samoan crabs that had crawled off of the counter, onto the floor, and scrambled to the makai (seaward) door trying to escape.

Samoan crabs would frequently be caught in the gill net when set overnight. The crab would reach for the fish in the net and would become entangled in the monofilament. Often by the time the net was pulled, the crab would have created a mass of tangles in its attempt to withdraw. On one occasion a brand new 4 inch mesh nylon braided net was set into the pond. The next morning we found the net filled with crabs. It was a mixed blessing. The high priced crabs had gnashed their pinchers into the nylon creating holes that an adult could walk through. The market price of the crabs paid for the net, however, there was a tremendous mending job left by their pinchers. Samoan crab is highly prized. When steamed the dull gray exoskeleton turns a bright red orange. The massive pinchers yield a sweet delicate meat. At Chinese restaurants, the crab is served in a salty, succulent black bean sauce.

THE WATERBIRDS

Auku’u. Black Crowned Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax hoactli)

The Hawaiian proverbs about the auku’u, the black-crowned night heron are analogous to a person who comes to steal or spy:

Auku’u hapapa i ka ha’i loko:

Heron groping in somebody else’s fishpond.

A man groping for somebody else’s woman.

Auku’u kia’i loko:

Heron who watches the (fish in the) pond.

A person who spies on others.

Indeed this bird would lurk about the pond as if to commit some unwelcome act. In stillness and patience, its grey brown body blends into the environs. Rocks along the edge of the pond spattered with white droppings denote its favorite areas of habitation. One day a heron was caught in a fishing line. It was wounded and unable to fly. Jim brought the bird to the Keiki pond and placed it a chicken coop that he then hung over the water. A closer look at the bird revealed the brown grey colors to be patterned with subtle shades of blue and white. The bird that looked a common brown color in the distance was beautiful up close.

I wondered at Jim’s choice of a pet, but his objective was to study the bird’s feeding patterns and to learn more about the predator’s impact upon the pond. The Auku’u is a creature of controversy. It is a bird that aquaculturists bemoan and environmentalists seek to protect. The aquaculture industry has created ample food, for the bird and their population increases steadily.

The bird was kept in the cage with a pan of water. Once a day, Jim would place some fish in the pan. The plumed predator was a finicky eater. Dead fish no matter how fresh was left untouched. Fresh fish was gobbled whole in a matter of seconds. The bird would grab the fish by its head, lift its beak up into the air, stretch out its neck, and swallow the fish whole. Jim started with small fish and tested the bird’s ability to eat larger and larger fish. Any fish over 1/2 lb. would not be eaten. We assumed that the larger fish could not fit down the bird’s throat After two weeks, the bird led leaving us with some understanding of the daily habits and predation. ‘Auku’u are known to eat the downy chicks of other birds. The predation of chicks by introduced species such as rats, cats, and mongoose has led to a decline of other water birds of Lokoea.

Alae keokeo,. Hawaiian Coot (Fulica americana alai)

The ‘alae keokeo swim in the open water. They resemble the mudhens with black bodies and frontal shields on their foreheads. They differ in larger and plumper bodies and their frontal shields are white. These birds with the white foreheads are diving birds. They dip underwater and emerge again on the surface a few feet away. As they emerge the water beads off their black feathers and glisten in the sun.

At one time these birds were common. In the 1940’s over 1,000 birds were counted at Kaelepulu pond which is now Enchanted Lake. Today, like the mudhen, are decreased in population due to decreased wetland habitat and predation.

We enjoyed these endemic Hawaiian waterbirds. They became to us a symbol of cultural continuity at this ancient Hawaiian fishpond. We tried in our ways to encourage their breeding. We learned that sometimes through non-intentional acts human presence can have negative impact upon wildlife. In the past when people have filled and drained the wetlands there was probably no intent to destroy the bird population. In introducing predators, there was no foresight that this would imbalance the ecosystem. So it was on rare occasion with our presence at Lokoea.

We routinely placed our fishtraps in the pond and checked them daily. It was alarming sight when one day Jim raised a trap to find the soggy body of a dead coot. Apparently, the diving bird had entered the trap through the large cone opening. Once inside, like a fish, it was trapped. Unable to reach the surface, it drowned.

Muscovy ducks, mallard ducks, and Chinese geese were the other waterbirds that inhabited the pond. Sometimes we would see the Aeo, Hawaiian Stilt (Himantopus mexicanus knudseni) and the ‘Iwa, Frigatebird (Fregata minorpalmerstoni) flying high in the sky above Lokoea.

Return to Many Ponds

Creatures In And Around the Pond

In addition to the fish, the Hawaiian Fish Ponds were ecosystems containing fish, fowl, and crustaceans.

FISH

Mullet ’Ama’ama. The Gray Mullet (Mugil cephalis)

An ancient Hawaiian proverb likens the mullet to a rich person: “‘Ala ke kai o ka ‘anae”

Fragrant is the soup of a big mullet.

A well-to-do person is attractive because of his prosperity.

A fat mullet is well liked for broth

Hawaiians noted different stages of growth and even the migration of mullet in terminology. They had seven names to describe stages of mullet growth. The most recognizable stages are:

pua or pua ‘ama for fingerlings

kahaha for hand length, ‘ama ‘ama for 8 inches

‘anae for 12 inches or more

The eggs are suspended by the movement of the water. In 59 to 64 hours they hatch. The newly hatched eggs are clumsy floating belly up and head down. As their yolk sacs are digested, they become free swimming and make several migrations down and up in the water column.

Survival at this state is tenuous. The perfect ocean conditions in temperature and salinity must be stable. Predators abound, the clumsy newly hatched fish are perfect food for the many creatures of the ocean. The availability of the proper Gods at the proper sage of development is also crucial.

[Carol A. Wyban May 1991]

Milkfish or Awa (Chanos chanos)

... They are a brilliant silvery color, quite large, and-have small scales and no teeth. [Tinker, Hawaiian Fishes p.38-39]

The awa is one of the most important food fishes in the Hawaiian Islands. It is next to the mullet the most abundant species frequenting the walled fishponds. Like the mullet, it is run with the tide into the fishponds and there confined while it grows to maturity.

Like most other fishes the Hawaiians gave it different names at different ages. The young were called puawa, medium sized individuals were called awa-awa, commercial fish were called simply awa, while the very large fish were called awa-kalamoho.[Tinker, Hawaiian Fishes p.38-39]

Stages of growth: puawa, awa-awa, says the young are puawa, medium size, awa- awa (describes the state after the bloom of youth is gone; a little rough) ordinary commercial size; awa; very large are awa-kalamoho.

[Titcomb "Native Use of Fish in Hawaii" Pg 66]

Aholehole Silver Perch (Kuhlia sandvicensis)

Perhaps the aholehole that rush down the waterway through the bullrush are the reason for this common saying: "Pupuhi ka i’a o ‘Uko’a naue ka ‘uki."

The fishes of ‘Uko’a blow, the rushes are stirred.

Meaning fishes are so numerous that their breath stirs the rushes.

O’opu nakea. Goby (Awaous stamineus)

So fond were they of ‘o’opu that the usually generous Hawaiians rarely shared this fish.

Titcomb states that even though a neighbor stood by while one cleaned her fish, freshly caught, there was no raising of the head in recognition, or a word or offering to share. If a greeting were exchanged, offering to share would have been obligatory.

The ‘o’opu is a carnivorous fish that burrows in the mud of estuaries. At one time the ‘o’opu spawn, called hinana, was gathered in vast quantities in known areas of different islands as they entered the streams.

Ka i’a a ka wai nui i lawe mai ai.

The fish borne along by the flood

[Jordan and Everman]

Papio / Ulua. Crevally (Caranx ignobilis)

The ulua was one of the fish that women were forbidden to eat in ancient days. Hawaiians likened this fish to a fine man and a strong warrior as described in the following poetical sayings:

Ka ulua kapapa o ke kai loa.

The powerful ulua of the deep sea.

A strong warrior.

The ulua fish is a strong fighter

ia i ka huki ulua

Gone to haul ulua fish.

Gone to get her man. The ulua fish signifies a man.

Moi Threadfin (polydactylus sexfilis)

As he was developing an understanding of Lokoea’s aquatic life, he discussed facets of the ecosystem with other scientists and made journal notations:

Tilapia. (Oreochromis mossambica, Oreochromis macrochir, Sarotherodon melanotheron)

In the decade prior to our arrival when Lokoea was not stocked, fed, or harvested; tilapia bred rapidily and dominated the ecosystem. This large population of tilapia combined with the scarcity of food led to an unhealthy environment Lack of regular harvesting resulted in an old stock of fish.

Although they are not highly regarded as a food fish in Hawaii tilapia have been an important source of food since recorded history began. It is the fish St. Peter caught in the Sea of Galilee and the fish that Christ fed the multitudes.

The mouth-brooding females congregated near the warm still shallows along the Southeastern wall of the large pond. Many times, when harvesting the gill net a brooding fish will spit out fertilized yellow eggs, and newly hatched larvae into the pond.

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CRUSTACEANS

‘Opae. Common Term for shrimps (Macrobrachium Lar)

Freshwater Prawn (Macrobrachium rosenbergii)

Samoan Crab. Scylla serrata

They are a rare catch in streams and brackish water estuaries of Oahu. At Lokoea they measure as much as eight inches across the carapace and weigh as much as five pounds, harvest weight. These armor-bodied creatures have sharp spikes on portions of their body segments.

THE WATERBIRDS

Auku’u. Black Crowned Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax hoactli)

The Hawaiian proverbs about the auku’u, the black-crowned night heron are analogous to a person who comes to steal or spy:

Auku’u hapapa i ka ha’i loko:

Heron groping in somebody else’s fishpond.

A man groping for somebody else’s woman.

Auku’u kia’i loko:

Heron who watches the (fish in the) pond.

A person who spies on others.

Alae keokeo,. Hawaiian Coot (Fulica americana alai)

At one time these birds were common. In the 1940’s over 1,000 birds were counted at Kaelepulu pond which is now Enchanted Lake. Today, like the mudhen, are decreased in population due to decreased wetland habitat and predation.

Muscovy ducks, mallard ducks, and Chinese geese were the other waterbirds that inhabited the pond. Sometimes we would see the Aeo, Hawaiian Stilt (Himantopus mexicanus knudseni) and the ‘Iwa, Frigatebird (Fregata minorpalmerstoni) flying high in the sky above Lokoea.

NOTES ON BIBLIOGRAPHY

Bardach pgs. 351, 360

Berger pgs. 84, 86

Beckley pg 21

Beckwith 136-137

Cobb pg. 360

Goldsberry pg. 223

Goslin and Brock pg. 159

Hepher and Pruginin pgs. 50, 51

Hiroa pg 321-323

Heisman and Fielder pg. 303

IALM&I pg. 29

ICALARM pgs. 1, 8, 24, 29, 33

Malo, pg. 39